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Post by Mark Gibson on Feb 23, 2006 17:15:07 GMT -5
Greetings,
I have a 92 Ford Bronco, that we are having a problem with a slow amp draw on the battery. With everything off, including the interior lights and under hood lights, theres a .5 amp draw on the battery. Nothing has shorted out or blown fuses. We did have to replace the shifter handle and removed alot of the dash to get the lever out and replaced, plus we also had to install a new electric window motor for the pasenger side window. The amp draw will drain the battery after about 2 days of not running the engine. Any ideas what else I should trouble shoot to find out what is causing the amp draw? I appreciate your feedback!
Thanks
Mark Gibson
Jax Fla
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Post by re-tired on Feb 23, 2006 17:22:11 GMT -5
Mark , if you have eleminated all the usual items, try disconnecting the alt.
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Post by way2old on Feb 23, 2006 19:01:04 GMT -5
Hello Mark and welcome to the forum. Disconnect the battery cable and connect a amp meter or test light between the cable and post. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out. This is the circuit the problem is on. If you can't get light to go out, start disconnecting componets one at a time to see if you can isolate it. It is time consuming and frustrating, but a good feeling when you finlly find it. I see re-tired answered you first cause you are from Florida  |
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Mark Gibson AKA Liv4Racin
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Post by Mark Gibson AKA Liv4Racin on Feb 23, 2006 20:58:23 GMT -5
Thanks Gentlemen for the advice.....I will go give these ideas a try!
MG
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Post by re-tired on Feb 24, 2006 6:46:30 GMT -5
dats right you hillbilly. ;D ;D At least us flat landers dont have to reset our baro sensors when we go down the driveway ! ;D ;D  |
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Post by way2old on Feb 24, 2006 6:50:36 GMT -5
how true, how true  |
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Post by Mark G on Mar 2, 2006 17:16:52 GMT -5
Hello again Gents!
When we hooked the amp meter around the negitive battery cable, we had an amp draw of 1.6, and that was with the hood open, and under hood light lit. When we disconected the Big Pigtail from the Alternator, the amp draw dropped to .5, and when we disabled the hoodlight, it dropped to .3. So I assume, (I should be careful about assume anything, and I think you guys know why), that the .3 amp draw is to the computer and clock, it would appear that the alternator has the amp draw. Over the course of 2 days, the battery is drained. Is my diagnosis to replace the Alt correct, or do I need to look at the other procedure you mentioned, and start pulling fuses. As always, I appreciate your advice! I would rather have the bronco attached to the boat trailer, but not quite yet!
Best Regards
Mark G
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Post by way2old on Mar 2, 2006 18:58:42 GMT -5
Hey Mark. If you have .5 amp draw or even the .3 amp draw thatis way too much. Ford specs are looking for .05 amp draw. We are looking at thousands not tenth of an amp. So somewhere there is somthhing that is not shutting off as it is supposed to. So fuse pulling might be the next step.
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Post by re-tired on Mar 2, 2006 21:23:39 GMT -5
I would completly disconnect alt first even the output wire. I did not know you had already diagnosed the alt . this kind of info really helps us help you.An easy way to tell if its to much is to use a test lite in place of the meter. if the test lite lights up , too much. dont lite your ok. you can then turn on something and have lite come on to verify.
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Post by Mark G on Mar 2, 2006 21:44:46 GMT -5
Ok, let me make sure I understand the procedure. Disconnect both wiring pigtails from the back of the Alt. Then, instead of using my DC Amp Meter, I should take the positive off the battery, and hook a test lite to the battery post and the other end to the positive battery cable end. If I get a Lite on, It's not the Alt and I should start pulling fuses??? Also, I compared the amp draw on 2 other Ford trucks, with their Alt connected, and the amp meter read 0.3. On the Bronco, with the Alt connected and the amp meter on the negitive battery cable, I was getting 1.6 amps. with the Alt unplugged, it was 0.3. What is a normal amp draw for the system?
Thank you both again for the help...........By the way, I hate electrical problems.....Give me an engine overhaul or repair anyday!
Best Regards
MG
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Post by re-tired on Mar 3, 2006 1:25:05 GMT -5
I always prefered the electrons over the oil . they are easier to wash off. I would take the ground cable off for safety sake. although the test will work on either post. As way2old said we are looking for .050 volt not .50 , its important where the decimal point is. The thing about the test light is its less confusing . you hook in between batt post and cable end that you took off. If the light lites up you have an excessive draw. If it does not lite your ok.
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Post by Mark G on Mar 3, 2006 17:30:25 GMT -5
Thanks again Gentlemen. I put down the meter, and used the test lite. Lite was on when the Alt was plugged in, as soon as I uplugged the Alt, the light went out. Plus, the back of the Alt was very warm to touch, and the engine was stone cold. It always makes my day when I can figure out an electrical problem! You can tell I am 50 year old when you get excitement out of fixing an electrical problem. Now we can hook up the boat and head offshore. I appreciate the help! I enjoy your site very much. Stay well!
Best Regards
Mark G
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Post by way2old on Mar 3, 2006 18:24:37 GMT -5
Good going mark and re-tired. Come back occasionally just to say hi. You don't have to wait for a problem to pop up. Re-tired is always willing to lie about, OOPS, talk about fishing. ;D
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Post by re-tired on Mar 3, 2006 19:44:59 GMT -5
Thank you , Thank you vera much  ;D ;D |
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