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305 SBC
Jun 29, 2005 12:34:36 GMT -5
Post by Venturi on Jun 29, 2005 12:34:36 GMT -5
Sorry I didn’t respond to your last post but I was a bit under the weather for a while.
So did you get things squared away enough to get it started?
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305 SBC
Aug 26, 2005 19:59:17 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Aug 26, 2005 19:59:17 GMT -5
I have replaced the E4ME carb. now with an M4ME which is not a computer controlled carb. I have replaced the EST distributor with one that has vacuum advance. I have heard about both manifold vacuum and ported vacuum being used for this. What did it normally use out of the factory? I also have a mystery vacuum port on the device that is in the heater hose. What is that device, can I remove it, and if not how do I hook it up? Ports #1 and #2 in the intake manifold I do not know what those are for. What are they for? Port #3 on the carb. would be manifold vacuum right? What is it for and could I use this port for my vacuum advance? Port #1 would be manifold vacuum right? What is this port for? Port #2 would be ported vacuum right? What is this port for, and could I use this port also for my vacuum advance? Port #3 is manifold vacuum right?, and goes to the PVC. Port #4 is manifold vacuum?, and is used for what? Port #5 is ported vacuum and runs to the evap. canister control valve. Now here I have a problem/question. The canister control valve (CCV) plugs into a TVS which I am not installing. Seen as how the CCV won't be operating properly, can I run a hose straight from Port #5 to the evap. canister? Thereby leaving out the CCV. I also have a long vacuum line running from up in front on the (throttle linkage?) along the wheel well and to the middle rear of the engine compartment. What is this (cruise control?)and does it go to either Port #1 or #2 in the middle photo? I really do need some help on this. I get the vacuum lines figured out I'll finally be able to fire this beast up!
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 8:18:20 GMT -5
Post by DanD on Aug 27, 2005 8:18:20 GMT -5
Out of the factory it probably was manifold giving you full vacuum advance until you step hard on the throttle supposedly to help stop pinging. The water valve is there to shut off the water flow to the heater core during max AC. There should a vacuum line coming through the firewall from the heater controls. Port #1 was used for the modulator valve on the transmission depending on what trans. Port #2 was for the cruise control or a vacuum reservoir bottle that supplied the cruise and other vacuum operated accessories. Port #3 Yea it’s manifold vacuum, usually went to the hot air intake temperature sensor in the air breather. Yes you could use it for the vacuum advance On the last picture #1 Yes manifold and I think went to the carbon canister purge valve. #2 I’m not sure but I think it is still manifold but at a restricted amount it ran things like the vacuum motor on the heat riser valve through a thermal vacuum switch. #3 Yes #4 It’s most likely ported and went to the canister purge valve #5 Is the float bowls vent and yes it goes to the canister. I’m not sure what a CCV stand for It’s to early here and I had to much fun last night to deserve the headache I have now (taking two more aspirins as I type) LOL That long line is likely what you think it is. All of this is from memory but I think I’ve got most of it right Dan.
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 9:14:06 GMT -5
Post by re-tired on Aug 27, 2005 9:14:06 GMT -5
Great job Dan . You have a better memory with a moosehead hangover than i have sober. One thing he did not mention, the brake booster. Theres a short metal line with a rubber hose that screws into back of carb , where that metal plug is.
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 9:19:33 GMT -5
Post by Venturi on Aug 27, 2005 9:19:33 GMT -5
Yep, you beat me to it Re-tired. It wont stop so good without the brake booster hooked up.
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 10:19:45 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Aug 27, 2005 10:19:45 GMT -5
"Port #1 was used for the modulator valve on the transmission depending on what trans." It has a TH350 tranny. Is there a line for it? "One thing he did not mention, the brake booster. Theres a short metal line with a rubber hose that screws into back of carb , where that metal plug is." It uses the Hydroboost system which uses the power steering for brake assist. "I’m not sure what a CCV stand for " Canister Control Valve. "The canister control valve (CCV) plugs into a TVS which I am not installing. Seen as how the CCV won't be operating properly, can I run a hose straight from Port #5 to the evap. canister? Thereby leaving out the CCV." Upon further thinking, if I do the above, then the charcoal canister will have a tube to it venting the gas tank, and one from the float bowl on the carb.. But would the one from the float bowl only vent it? If so there would be no way for the fumes to leave the charcoal canister to get burned. I think I need a different CCV. By the way Dan, the new carb. is a Canadian import. I bought from a guy in Alberta that rebuilds them. Good day eh!
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 11:07:00 GMT -5
Post by DanD on Aug 27, 2005 11:07:00 GMT -5
With all the emissions that have already been disconnected forget the canister all together. Cap all the lines and the carb vent #5 (there’s another carb vent that’s between the choke and secondary air plates) stick on a vented gas cap and you’re off to the races. I’m sorry but you’re making this more complicated then it needs to be. Stick the key in the Ignition and start it up. I understand how hard you’ve worked on this project and you don’t want to ---- up anything but it’s time to get some satisfaction out of all your work. This is just my opinion and its not meant to offend, but I’ve talked to you a lot about this job and I kind of feel like we know each other. I tell my friends how I feel. Dan.
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 11:09:51 GMT -5
Post by re-tired on Aug 27, 2005 11:09:51 GMT -5
OH WELL, I TRIED. Hope the hydo boost keeps working. LOLOL
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 13:43:57 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Aug 27, 2005 13:43:57 GMT -5
I’m sorry but you’re making this more complicated then it needs to be. Stick the key in the Ignition and start it up. I understand how hard you’ve worked on this project and you don’t want to ---- up anything but it’s time to get some satisfaction out of all your work. This is just my opinion and its not meant to offend, but I’ve talked to you a lot about this job and I kind of feel like we know each other. I tell my friends how I feel. Dan. I think I know how you feel, and I would like to thank you and everyone else for their patience with me on this. I am still learning and hopefully from my mistakes and with all your guy's help, I've learned something and I won't have such a tough time on the next one. Hell if we lived closer, I'd buy a keg of beer for all of ya. "Hope the hydo boost keeps working. LOLOL" I better, it's brand new. The only thing then is, do I need to look for a vacuum line from the TH350 tranny?
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305 SBC
Aug 27, 2005 23:11:59 GMT -5
Post by DanD on Aug 27, 2005 23:11:59 GMT -5
Originally there would be a steel ¼ diameter inch tube that ran down along beside the transmission dipstick tube. One end of this tube would be connected to the transmissions modulator valve and the other end to the intake manifold vacuum tree (Port #1 in the middle picture) Dan
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305 SBC
Aug 28, 2005 9:29:46 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Aug 28, 2005 9:29:46 GMT -5
Okay now I have gone into diagnostic mode. I plugged in the cruise control into Port #2 in the middle picture, plugged port #1 and hooked up the vacuum advance to Port #3. I hooked up the PVC to Port #3 in the bottom photo and plugged the rest of the ports. I turned the key and fuel sprayed out of the top of the carb., and all the plugs on the carb except the one on the float bowl vent blew off. I talked to my neighbor, who races circle track and does all his own work what he thought. He said that it sounded like I might have a stuck valve, and suggested I ran a compression test. So I disconnected the distributor, pulled all the plugs, and proped open the throttle and choke. These are the numbers I got;
#1 = 90 lbs. #2 = 140 lbs. #3 = 130 lbs. #4 = 105 lbs. #5 = 80 lbs. #6 = 125 lbs. #7 = 105 lbs. #8 = 120 lbs.
Now comes the problem. I've never really done a compression test before, we touched on the subject in school last summer, so I really don't know what the h*ll these numbers mean. What do they tell you?
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305 SBC
Aug 28, 2005 15:35:46 GMT -5
Post by DanD on Aug 28, 2005 15:35:46 GMT -5
With the psi of the cylinders being all over the place I would go back and readjust the valves. You may have a couple set to tight and it wouldn’t hurt to check. It may just be that the valves haven’t seated and it’ll all be ok after the first couple of minutes of running. With this thing coughing back (if that’s what it was) it could be that you have the ignition timing set a 180 degrees out. You probably know how to check this but I’ll go over it anyway. Disconnect the battery wire at the distributor, pull # 1 spark plug have someone bump the engine over while you’re holding your finger against the spark plug hole. When you feel compression starting to build shut the key off and then by hand rotate the engine until the timing marker is aligned with the zero mark on the index. Lift the distributor cap off and the ignition rotor should be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire position of the distributor cap. The biggest thing is to make sure you are actually on TDC #1 of its compression stroke. After all that it just might be that that timing is just sitting a little to far retarded causing it to cough back through the intake. Dan.
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305 SBC
Sept 1, 2005 14:37:32 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Sept 1, 2005 14:37:32 GMT -5
Okay she's wantin' to start. It starts and runs rough for a couple nanoseconds then dies. I haven't touch ed the valve lash yet, but I am concernered about two valves. One rocker arm on each side isn't getting oil. I'm thinking that there may be clogs and hoping that they will work clear. I'm going to wait and see. I checked the timing and it was 180 degrees out. So I disconnected the battery wire at the distributor, and hooked up my compression gauge on the number one cylinder. I then bumped it until the gauge barely read any pressure and then finished turning it to TDC by hand. I pulled the distributor out and aligned the rotor to the green mark on the distributor base and reinstalled the distributor. When doing so the rotor turned to just between the #1 and #8. Bolted it back down and plugged it all in after reinstalling the spark plugs. I had backed out the idle mixture screws intially 2 1/2 turns, and had the curb idle screw barely in. I now have 4 turns on the idle mixture screws and the curb idle screw all the way in. The vacuum plugs are staying on now too. I haven't bought a vented gas cap yet either. The battery is on a charger with a 75 amp boost, and there is spark also. What do you think the problem may be, or do you have a suggestion?
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305 SBC
Sept 1, 2005 21:30:25 GMT -5
Post by re-tired on Sept 1, 2005 21:30:25 GMT -5
Hi guy ,,I'm not familiar with your skills so i need to ask . Did you set valves at zero lash plus a turn ? Thats a good starting point. Double check firing order and rotation on cap. Leave dist just loose enough to turn back & forth while cranking. let us know.
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305 SBC
Sept 1, 2005 23:16:18 GMT -5
Post by kringold on Sept 1, 2005 23:16:18 GMT -5
Hi guy ,,I'm not familiar with your skills so i need to ask . Did you set valves at zero lash plus a turn ? Thats a good starting point. That's what I set the valve lash at. Zero plus 1 turn. I tightened the nut while rotating the rod until the rod stop turning. Then I tightened it one more turn.
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