2000 Mercury Sable- won't crank

[Aldo]

2000 Mercury Sable, 96K miles. Yesterday suddenly (never had problem) it would not start, just clicking, sounded like bad battery. Tried jump starting, same. Tried jump start bypassing my batt, hooked jumper cables direct to my battery cables, same.

Got towed, pulled out starter went to Parts store, it tested weak, bought reman starter. Installed, checked all cables, great. Had battery checked, good. Car started up fine, turned off, and then would not start, just clicking.

Pulled reman sarter out, returned and exchanged for another, had them test at store, Great. Put it in, no start just clicking. Tested starter relay, good.

Just out of curiosity I put in a battery from a Nissan P/U (Autozone Batt), car started great, repeatedly. Put original batt. in won't start, just clicking. Battery is only 6 months old, went to store udgraded to higher cap. battery. Put in no start.

Put Nissan batt in again starts up fine. New battery tests great, it is larger amp then Nissan Batt but will not sart just clicking. I used remote starter switch to check selonoid, just clicks. I have done this batt swap several times every time it starts fine with Pick-up's batt but not new one.

Help this is a mystery.

[DanD]

With the car starting with one battery and not the other doesn’t make a lot of sense, other then that the Nissan battery when installed puts a different twist or strain on the cables allowing it to make a good connection. Have you tried the putting the Sable’s battery in the Nissan?
If you’re 100% sure that the new battery is fully charged I would maybe try doing a few voltage drop tests across the cables.
With a voltmeter connected at battery positive terminal and to the starters positive main terminal. You should have no more then .25 (¼) of a volt (maximum) with the ignition switch in the crank position.
Do the same with the negative, by connecting on meter lead to battery negative and the other to the bolt that connects the cable to the engine block.
The cable can look good from the outside and still be corroded internally.
I’m also assuming that the click you’re hearing is coming from the starter and not the starter relay in the battery junction box.
Here’s a wiring diagram of the starting circuit and I drew a picture (Don’t laugh) of how to connect the voltmeter to do the voltage drop test on the positive cable.
Dan.

[re-tired]

I drew a picture (Don’t laugh)

Now your using a blue meter,Cornwall Tools ? Your artwork is improving. Very good answer by the way. ;D

[DanD]

The art work maybe getting better but I still seem to have the shakes and I only had a couple of drinks last night. I promise LOL
Dan.

[re-tired]

The more I drink the less I shake.HIC, Probably just numbs the parklnsons. Hey,HIC, maybe I'm on to something ! Wonder HIC , how much I'll need to drink to be steady enough to drive ? HIC

[Aldo]

Thanks for the info. The New sable batt works fine in the Nissan. I tried both batts several times, the Nissan works fine always in Merc. Tested cables voltage fine and checked ohms good. After two days put new Merc batt back in Merc and it WORKS great, aargh.

I think I may have a bad cable, just not showing up, maybe twisting changes it as you mentioned. Probably happened to twist good for Nissan batt every time. I'm going to change cables and see what happens over time.

Thanks, Guys.

[way2old]

Hey retarded--- I mean re-tired! ;D If you drink enough, you may be able to drive in Lexington in the winter.

[DanD]

checked ohms good

Checking the resistance with an Ohmmeter on larger or for that matter on any wire is only checking that there is still some form of connection. Let say that ninety percent of the cable is burnt or corroded but the last 10 is still ok, an ohmmeter will still show you a very low or a normal resistance value, that’s because your testing the circuit unloaded. If you try and test a live circuit with an ohmmeter, you’re going to let the smoke out of the meter, not a good thing. LOL
That’s why I suggested a voltage drop test because you are testing the circuit under load, in other words while the system is asked to work, as in trying to start the car. That last 10 percent of “good cable” or connection will overheat instantly, the resistance will go through the roof, causing a larger then normal voltage drop across that point of the circuit.
Dan.

[re-tired]

another way of looking at it . a wire with 10 strands .cut 9 and you still get continuity. which is why doing a voltage drop as you did is best.

[re-tired]

another way of looking at it . a wire with 10 strands .cut 9 and you still get continuity. which is why doing a voltage drop as you did is best.